Home (eventually!)

It was clearly time to come home when we woke up to a dull, cloudy sky on Saturday, October 10. We had only an hour’s drive through the mountains from Bermeo to Bilbao. The car park/aire we had stayed in was perfect as it was quiet, had waste disposal so we could empty everything before getting on the ferry and was on hard standing so didn’t need to worry if it rained. The only downside had been that it was yet another app that needed to be downloaded before you could arrive as you have to reserve your space ahead of time. Being Spain, you also have to enter all the relevant information about yourselves as well, assuming you have good enough reception! Whilst in France, we only needed the previously downloaded France Passion and Camping-Car Park although we did download Qipeo as it had been recommended but we didn’t use it in the end. Previously, in Spain we had just used Park4Night but found we needed new apps like PVerde and TripStop as towns have now regulated their park ups more and realise there is money to be recouped for the investment in facilities.

Anyway, back to Saturday morning. Whilst having breakfast, we were entertained by the number of cars who came up to the barrier thinking it was the car park next door. They would then quickly reverse and go down the road to the height restricted entrance. However, two cars in a row managed to slam, at speed, straight back into a lamppost they hadn’t seen behind them. The first car couldn’t believe it as there was much wringing of hands and choice words. The second one was so embarrassed that he drove off despite his rear light hanging off which then fell to the ground.

We left around 10.15 and had a lovely drive through the countryside to the ferry port. We had set our sat nav to “No Toll Roads” at the beginning of the trip and it has meant that we have seen lots of wonderful countryside as well as lovely villages. Generally, it’s added maybe 30-60 minutes on a longish journey but well worth it. We arrived at the port around 2 hours ahead of the sailing time of 13.00 but we literally didn’t drive on until 12.50. We aren’t quite the last but pretty close. However, our friends, Sue and Sheila were one of the first on so they had nabbed seats at the front of the Commodore’s Lounge for us. As it was an overnight crossing, we had booked a cabin and, on their advice, the lounge. It was brilliant as there was plenty of seating, drinks and food all day just like an airport lounge. Given we would have had to buy our own food and drink for the 28 hour crossing, it pretty much paid for itself and was also a very pleasant environment. It also had the added advantage of being an excellent place to spot dolphins which we did on Sunday morning.

It was probably just as well we had paid for the lounge as our arrival time was delayed by over 6 hours due to engine trouble. We finally arrived at Portsmouth at midnight so got home at 02.30 and to bed at 03.30. Exhausted but happy to be home.

We drove over 2,600 miles, visited 5 different countries excluding the U.K. in just short of 6 weeks. We used over 430 litres of fuel costing us nearly €900 so perhaps it wasn’t the best time to go on a road trip. The Netherlands was the most expensive at €2.46 per litre and Andorra the cheapest at €1.73. We spent 18 nights in proper campsites (11 of those were in Holland where they don’t really offer aires). We ate out 10 times in total over the 41 days. We had a great time visiting places we had not been to before as well as returning to old favourites. Dora will now be put to bed for the winter but, who knows, maybe we will take her out for a cheeky little trip over the coming months.

Miles since last blog: 118

Miles this trip: 2,661

Our road trip courtesy of Travel Boast and Wildertrips.

Biscarrosse, Bayonne, Biarritz and Basque

We left Gavarnie on a very wet morning (Thursday, October 1) with very low cloud so we decided against visiting other cols en route as we wouldn’t see anything!

Our first stop was Pau to see the chateau and the medieval town. Naturally, the chateau was shut for lunch when we arrived but we could wander around the outside of it before exploring the city itself.

It was a long driving day as our destination was the Dune de Pilat near Biscarrosse, not that far south of Bordeaux. We had planned to visit it last year but the weather had turned so we changed our plans. The dune itself is 100m above sea level and covers an extraordinary area. We parked up and walked to the top of it. Photos don’t do it justice regarding the sheer scale of it.

We then drove onto our park up for the night which was a Camping Car Park aire (P4N#3694), nestled in a pine forest less than ten minutes to Les Viviers beach. It was so idyllic that we booked in for an extra night.

The next day we drove up to Arcachon to catch the ferry to Cap Ferret. It took us the best part of an hour to find somewhere to park that would allow us to stay for more than two hours. Nightmare. Finally, found a spot outside of town and cycled to the ferry port. Caught the midday ferry over, (where bikes are put on top of the boat!) and then cycled up to the village of L’Herbe to have oysters and crevettes for lunch at a seafood shack, Chez Guillaume, washed down with a wee glass of wine. Although Cap Ferret isn’t an island, it sure feels like one – Ile de Re meets Nantucket. Great cycle paths and upmarket shops in the main town of Bélisaire.

After lunch we cycled down to Cap Ferret point but the dune was closed to visitors so we cycled back to the lighthouse and climbed its 200 plus steps to the top. We were rewarded with fantastic views of the dune.

Back to our camping car park aire to watch another sunset with a beer.

The next morning, Liz’s cold was getting worse so we had a leisurely morning chilling before leaving our campsite just before 14.00 to drive 86 miles to Ondres Municipal Camping Car Aire (P4N#132008), just north of Bayonne and right on the beach. This cheered Liz up being next to a beach.

On Sunday, October 4, we had tickets to the refurbished Musée Bonnat-Helleu in Bayonne as all museums are free to entry on the first Sunday of every month. We drove the short distance to Bayonne around 10.00 and managed to find a place to park near the station on the northern side of the river. It was incredibly busy for a Sunday morning so we were very lucky to find a space.

Bayonne has an interesting history, having been around since at least Roman times. There are still Roman towers around the town that were converted into homes, one of them known as the Executioner’s House!It is the French Basque capital and was once even under English control after Eleanor of Aquitaine’s marriage to Henry II. It was a lovely city to wander round and we popped into the Basque museum that ensured that the Basque culture, history and traditions were recorded. Bayonne became famous for its chocolatiers as Jews fled to the city following their expulsion from Spain in 1492 bringing their chocolate making skills with them. The Bonnat-Helleu museum had a number of masters’ paintings in there, including Constable, Reynolds, Degas as well as Léon Bonnat himself. Overall, though, it was slightly underwhelming. Bizarrely, the cathedral is known for its two steeples, only one of which is kept clean!

We then drove onto Biarritz some 30 minutes away on the coast, still very much in the Basque region. We didn’t know quite what to expect as reviews had differed. We found a lovely seaside town that was once very glamorous but now was still quite sweet mixed with lots of surfing dudes as the waves and beaches were perfect for it The town was very busy on a Sunday afternoon but definitely not motorhome friendly as we had to park over a mile away from the town centre as all the main car parks had height restrictions. We enjoyed the mix of art deco and early 20th century architecture with promenade walks and sandstone rock formations. We even found the chocolatier, Miremont, where Queen Victoria apparently loved their caramels.

We left Biarritz around 18.30 as we needed to find somewhere to stay for the night and had no plan! Again, a number of places had height restrictions or low bridges. We eventually found a lovely campsite, Camping Soubelet (P4N#201165), near Guethary, right by the Mayarco beach that both had space, was open at 19.30 and was charging less than €20. Once parked up we quickly walked to the Ti Cabanon beach bar and had an incredible meal of Moules Marinière and squid risotto whilst watching a lovely sunset.

Miles since last blog: 357

Miles this trip: 2,295

Windmills and wetlands

We left our campsite near Delft around 10.00 on Friday, September 4. Not sure how it took us two hours to get ready with showers, filling up with water, emptying the grey and black waste. The campsite had a wonderful machine to empty and clean the toilet cassette where you popped the cassette in and it did it all behind a closed shutter then popped out all clean with bio toilet solution already in it. Wonderful!

We drove about half an hour to the windmills of Kinderdijk. The car park was about a 30 minute walk from the windmills so we got the bikes out and cycled there in storm force winds. Still, it was easier than walking. The windmills are a series of 19 windmills which were used to keep the area from flooding. Before the great St Elizabeth Day’s Flood of 1170 there were only dykes to keep the river and rainwater at bay. When the flood broke those defences and hundreds lost their lives, they realised they needed a method of drawing the water out, as the land was well below sea level. The first windmill was built in the 17th century and the others around 1740. The name Kinderdijk comes from the legend of a baby girl in a wicker basket being saved from the floods with a cat balancing the basket through the torrential waters.

It rained most of the morning so we did all look like drowned rats at times but the windmills were fascinating. All bar three of them are still lived in by millers. To supplement their income, they harvested the reeds as well as the peat.

We left the windmills to make our way a few miles towards Dordrecht, the oldest town in the Netherlands. We had found a camperplaats, called Kinderdijk (P4N#385169) where, whilst basic, was perfect for exploring the area. Once sorted, we jumped on our bikes and cycled into Dordrecht about 6 miles away. Part of the journey was by ferry for the princely sum of €4 return and bikes go free! We had a lovely wander around the old part of the town before a quick beer and heading home to supper on board. The statue of William of Orange shows his devoted dog who, according to legend, wasted away after his master’s assassination and was buried with him.

We had booked a river cruise for the Saturday lunchtime at the Biesbosch nature reserve. This is a series of creeks and rivers that make up the wetlands of Biesbosch. The name means forest of reeds as reeds and willow were harvested by hand from there in what must of been back breaking work. The river tour was all in Dutch but luckily Google live translation came to the rescue. Beavers became extinct in the area by the 1900s as they were trapped for their meat and fur. In the 1980s, German beavers from the Ruhr valley were reintroduced and there are now some 500. We didn’t see any on our tour but we did see two sea eagles soaring above us. It was lovely just walking along the paths enjoying the quiet and being with nature.

We departed Biesbosch around 14.45 to drive north to continue our adventures but that’s for the next blog!

Campsite at Kinderdijk marked

Miles this trip: 170

Miles this blog: 54

Ring of Kerry Part One

Sunday, May 10 started sunny but with a very cold wind blowing that was going to be with us for a few days. We left our campsite around 09.15 to start our exploration of the Ring of Kerry. This is a 170km road trip around the Kerry peninsula. We had done a little bit of it from Molls Gap to Killarney but there was still a lot to do. The tour buses do it anticlockwise so we did the same so that we didn’t have to pass them on the narrow roads.

Ring of Kerry from Killarney
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