Den Bosch

We left our campsite just outside of Arnhem around 11.00 on Tuesday, September 8 to make our way to Camping Distelloo, some 60 plus miles away in the Brabant region of The Netherlands. This would be our home for the next six nights whilst we watch the Solheim Cup. This is a biannual golf match between Europe and the USA featuring some of the best women golfers in the world. As you can imagine, the rivalry is intense but also played with mutual respect. That goes for the spectators as well. We obviously wanted Europe to win but it’s equally a showcase for women’s sport which so rarely gets the media coverage it should.

Anyway, before we arrive at our campsite outside of ‘s Hertogenbosch (known as Den Bosch, woods in English) we pop into the lovely town of Buren. This was the home of Anna van Egmond, the first wife of William of Orange and became part of the Orange family dynasty. Although the town promotes its connection as much as possible, it is still a quaint little town. It had the added advantage of easy parking and a supermarket close by.

We then drove onto our campsite, which was set in the woods. We found it via a google search as it wasn’t on any of our apps.

Dora with our friends Adria Twin.

It became full over the week with many campervans and motor homes, mainly for the golf as it was only a ten minute cycle ride through the woods to the cycle park at Bernardus Golf Club. The organisers were running shuttle buses to and from various locations, including Den Bosch, so we jumped on one on Weds afternoon to see the city. Torrential rain was also forecast so it seemed a good idea as it was only a practice day for the players.

Den Bosch has a wonderful old quarter, Uilenburg, dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries and, unusually for The Netherlands, many of the canals went through tunnels rather than just having bridges over them. The twice weekly market was just finishing up when we finally arrived so we were able to enjoy a Dutch staple, kibberling. This is a freshly made fried fish in bite sized chunks that you have with either mayonnaise or rémoulade. Delicious and not expensive. As the heavens opened, we thought it appropriate to pop into the Sint Jan’s cathedral for shelter, which has one of the largest organ walls in Europe. After all this culture we had to stop and have a Bossche Bol that was a huge profiterole.

The woods in the nearby town of Vught was the setting for a concentration camp during WWII. Whilst it wasn’t an extermination camp, many people died or were executed there or were moved onto other camps in Poland or Germany. A well thought through exhibition highlighting that there never is just black and white in war.

Back to the golf course to pick up our bikes and then back to the van. The theme of torrential downpours continued for the rest of our time there but the golf did not disappoint. World class golfers playing for each other was nail biting stuff. All square after days one and two with 12 singles matches on the Sunday to decide who will take home the trophy. Europe prevailed 15-13 and the place roared with each hole won let alone when we won a match. Great stuff.

It was really torrential
The winning team!

Miles since last blog: 67

Miles this trip: 440

Arnhem

We left Giethoorn around midday on Sunday, September 6 after a delightful wander around the town, even getting a chance to do some food shopping. Shopping in The Netherlands is a bit tricky as not many supermarkets have large car parks and many Dutch seem to do theirs by bike! Anyway, we travelled for around 100 minutes to the small town of Otterlo in the Hoge Veluwe National Park. We found a site called Camping de Bosrand (P4N#452240) that was a tiny site with just 20 places but we managed to book one night with them. It was perfect for us as we could then cycle to the National Park to visit the Kroller-Muller Museum. It holds the largest collection of Van Gogh in the world with over 90 paintings and drawings. It also had a wonderful sculpture garden. We managed to do the whole thing before it closed at 17.00. Back to the van for pre dinner drinks and a meal.

The next morning, we had to move on so we opted to drive the few miles to Oosterbeek where there was a museum on the Battle of Arnhem in WWII. Many of you will be familiar with the film, A Bridge Too Far, which was all about Operation Market Garden. This was an airborne drop involving 30,000 men behind enemy lines in September 1944 after D Day. General Montgomery thought it would shorten the war. Instead, it was a disaster with 17,000 killed or wounded and 6,500 taken prisoner. The museum at Oosterbeek was in Hartenstein House, the same house that became the Allied HQ during this operation and it was a fascinating insight into the battle. The immersive experience in the basement was particularly impressive. We also had visited the War Cemetery just outside the town before visiting the museum.

We then moved onto our campsite for the night just outside of Arnhem, Camping Warnsborn (P4N#142580). It was another small campsite and again close to the National Park but at the southern end so it was another site in the woods.

Camping Warnsborn

Once settled we cycled into Arnhem itself to see the John Frost Bridge (of A Bridge Too Far fame).

The John Frost Bridge

All over town, the flag of the 101st Airborne Division was being flown in commemoration of the battle. Considering Arnhem was pretty much razed to the ground by the Germans during and after the battle, the local people didn’t seem to hold a grudge against us.

A poignant reminder

Back to the van again for beers in the sun before dinner on board.

Miles since last blog: 80

Miles this trip: 373

Oudewater and Geithoorn

As the motorways are toll free in The Netherlands, we made good use of them to drive towards our final destination of the day, Giethoorn. Before that, though, we stopped at Oudewater, about an hour north of the Biesbosch.

Oudewater became famous in the 16th century for weighing people who had been accused of being witches. It is thought that over one million women were killed as a result of the witch hunts across Europe during this time. It was a time when petty grievances and superstition ran rife. Many women were tortured, drowned or burnt alive due to the fact that it was extremely hard to prove their innocence. However, one test was about how much they weighed as witches were thought to be very light in order to fly around on broomsticks. So, women accused of witchcraft could be weighed. The town weighing house was generally used as this was where goods were normally weighed. Many of the weigh masters were bribed to ensure the women only weighed a few pounds. This happened when Emperor Charles V was passing by and he ordered the woman to be reweighed at Oudewater as he knew the weighing there was reliable. The woman survived and was given a certificate stating her weight which was then proof of her not being a witch. After that, the town drew thousands of women who for a small fee could be weighed. So, of course, Liz demanded to be weighed and got a certificate to prove that she wasn’t a witch.

We then continued north for another 90 minutes to reach Giethoorn and found the lovely, quirky campsite Haamstede (P4N#32120) about a 20 minute walk from the centre.

Camping Haamstede

We arrived around 19.00 so we had a quick G&T before heading out to find our restaurant, L’Achterhuus, in the centre of the village of Giethoorn. Giethoorn means goat horn as they found hundreds of horns when they drained the area in the 13th century. They believed that the remains were from the St Elizabeth Day flood of 1170. It now is a delightfully pretty village with no cars that felt to us like a cross between Cambridge, Marlow, Cotswolds and Norfolk Broads with criss crossing canals flanked by quaint thatched cottages on the banks and hump backed bridges. Due to the large number of tourists, there are also hundreds of small electric boats to hire to meander around the village for an hour or two. Dinner was gorgeous with Liz having guinea fowl and Jo had boneless ribs, washed down with a glass of wine. A walk around a deserted village afterwards made for a very pleasant evening.

The next morning, Sunday September 6, we took advantage of the coaches not having arrived yet to walk around the village in daylight. It really was very pretty, helped by the lovely weather no doubt.

Miles this blog: 123

Miles this trip: 293

Thomastown to Home

We had swapped our tee time at Mount Juliet Golf Course from the afternoon to early morning on Monday, May 18 as the weather forecast was due to get worse as the day progressed. The golf course was very grand, having been designed by Jack Nicholas. Half way round, we received an email to say that Stena Ferries had cancelled all ferries from Rosslare until May 23! Once we had finished our golf, we quickly booked ourselves on the Dublin to Holyhead route on the same day we had originally booked. Phew!

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Galway City

What a vibrant place! It’s like Dingle on steroids. Having parked in the railway station car park we wandered into town to find a restaurant. Galway is known for its music scene, food and bars. Being a Friday night, of course, all the notable restaurants were fully booked. We had found a Portuguese restaurant on Google that got good reviews so we booked a table. We arrived there to find that there were doing a special three course set menu with paired wines. It all sounded delicious.

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Dingle Peninsula

Wednesday, May 13 started off horrible with more lashing rain and extremely windy. However, we were not deterred as we wanted to drive the Slea Head Drive. This is done clockwise as that’s the way the buses go and the roads are extremely narrow. Of course, you had some numpties who decide to go the other way and create chaos and bedlam. It’s a 24 mile loop from Dingle so we needed to drive around 20 minutes to get to the start. We also used the drive through Dingle town to decide on where to stay the night when we had finished as we fancied a meal out and some proper Irish music in a pub.

Dingle Peninsula

First stop was Ventry Beach, which was lovely but strangely had an Irish warship anchored in the bay. This was followed by some quite dodgy tourist attractions. Dun Beag Fort had collapsed a few years ago, the Famine Cottages weren’t bad but the Beehive Huts were a rip off.

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Ring of Kerry Part Two

We continued our tour of the Ring of Kerry on Tuesday, May 12. We left our park up at Portmagee at 09.00 and continued anti clockwise. First stop was the Coman Chiste view point (The Wild Atlantic Way has various viewpoints along its route). We looked over to the beautiful Derrynane Beach, where Daniel O’Connor’s house was situated. We drove onto the house where he lived when not in Dublin or London. Really interesting to discover more about the man who helped repeal the anti Catholic laws in the 1800s, including a huge chariot that he used when he was released from jail for sedition.

Then onto Sneem, sweet village, and Sneem Seaweed Baths for a much anticipated soak in a hot tub. The seaweed is foraged locally and the vista is gorgeous.

After a quick look around Sneem we made our way back to Killarney for a food shop, LPG refill and fuel top up before leaving the Kerry peninsula to make our way to the Dingle peninsula. Our park up for the night was at Inch Beach (P4N#289375). Gorgeous 5km beach but very windy. Dinner in the van before the rain absolutely lashed it down.

Miles since last blog: 98

Miles this trip: 1,038

Killarney

We left Molls Gap around 09.20 to make our way to Killarney, where we were going to base ourselves for a couple of days. We were now on the Ring of Kerry and you could tell it was on all the bus tours of the country! Suddenly, there was an explosion of people, cars and buses. Very different to the previous couple of weeks.

Our first stop was Looscaungh Lough viewpoint. It wasn’t on the list for tour stops so it was easy to park. Next onto Ladies View where allegedly Queen Victoria’s Ladies in Waiting stopped to look over towards Killarney. It is a magnificent view and part of the National Park. Then the Torc Waterfall where the car park was rammed so we turned around and went back up the road to a quieter one and had a lovely walk along paths to the waterfall. It was quite sweet but not a patch on other waterfalls we’ve seen on our travels. I know, we have been spoilt!

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Lighthouses and marinas

Yet another peaceful night in Dora and we awoke on Sunday, May 3 in the car park of Camus Farm to stunning views across the fields. We left relatively early for us at 09.10 as we had booked a ferry trip to go round to the Fastnet Rock Lighthouse at 14.00 from Baltimore and we wanted to visit a few places on the way. First stop was the Drombeg Stone Circle that was created around 150BC with an altar stone that is aligned to where the sun sets on December 21 (Winter Solistice). Next, we saw the waterfall at Leap village. According to legend, many people escaped the law by disappearing into the dense forest around Leap.

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Clonakilty and Galley Head

Wednesday night at Charles Fort was a bit blustery as we were high up but it was still a peaceful one. We left around 09.30 on Thursday to make our way down towards Old Head of Kinsale to visit the Lusitania Museum. The sinking of the Cunard passenger ship in 1915 by a German U Boat was instrumental in the USA joining the First World War as there were many Americans on board. No one survived. The ship sank very quickly when a second explosion occurred soon after the first. At the time it was thought the U Boat had fired a second torpedo. The more likely reason is that it was carrying ammunition for the British Army! The museum itself is in the old Signal Point that had been established during the Napoleonic Wars to warn of imminent attack along the west coast of Ireland. Unfortunately, the weather was pretty miserable so the views weren’t great!

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Cobh and Kinsale

Tuesday, April 28, was another lovely day so we were up at the crack of to get to Cobh (pronounced Cove) as we had tickets for the Titanic Experience at 09.00. We found a great park up next to the waterfront (P4N#13454) and a 15 min walk along the front to the old White Star Line Ticket Office – the last port of call of the Titanic before that fateful night of April 14/15 1912. Cobh used to be called Queenstown, renamed in honour of Queen Victoria’s visit there but was changed to Cobh after independence. Whilst small, it was a well guided tour with lots of artefacts and videos. Good value for money.

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Waterford to Ardmore

Whilst we had a peaceful night’s sleep in the golf club car park, the greenkeepers appear to start work before 06.00 on a Monday morning! However, they did try to keep the noise down as much as possible. We left there around 09.45 to drive to Dungarvan via The Magic Road. It’s a road in the hills where you, apparently, go uphill when stationary. Clearly an optical allusion but we couldn’t find the spot to confirm it! We then diverted back to the viaduct at Kilmacthomas that was part of the Waterford to Dungarvan Greenway before going onto Dungarvan, a harbour town with a fort and, more importantly, a good supermarket. What was even better was that the supermarket (SuperValu) gave us several hours free parking so we could do the shop and then explore the town.

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Waterford

Saturday, April 25 was a beautiful day and perfect to explore Waterford city and surrounds. We were perfectly placed on the greenway to visit both Mount Congreve gardens and the city itself. The gardens were magnificent and literally next door to our park up. They also had loos which is always a bonus!

After a lovely couple of hours walking around the gardens, we then cycled into town along the Waterford Greenway. It obviously well used and well cared for. It stretches for over 45km from Waterford to Dungarvan. A joy to cycle into a city safely and away from cars. It even had a tourist train for part of the way with various art installations.

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South Wales Tour Part Two

We left Freshwater East Caravan Club site on Thursday morning, April 2, to start exploring the next part of the Welsh coastline. It was a bright but blowy morning as we drove across the Castlemartin Firing Range into the National Park. The Pembrokeshire National Park was gorgeous in the sunshine and amazingly not very crowded. First stop was St Govan’s Chapel, which was built sometime between 8 and 14 centuries ago, and is hewn from the rock. Steep steps down to it as it’s almost at sea level but well worth it. We were able to park easily at all the sights despite being so close to Easter. Then onto Huntsman’s Leap where we found two climbers who were getting ready to abseil down! The gap is not as small as it looks. After that, it was Stack Rocks and then The Green Bridge of Wales. The Bridge is really an arch over the sea but still very dramatic.

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Honfleur and home!

We arrived at our car park/motorhone aire at 15.00. Luckily, there were quite a few spots free but these soon filled up even though there were 140 spaces. At just €15 per 24 hours with electricity, water and disposal available, this was a bargain and only a ten minute walk into town.

Honfleur motorhome aire

We hadn’t been back to Honfleur for over 20 years and the place still had a wonderful charm, despite all the day tourists who came by the coach load. We cycled, walked, ate and chilled in the 28 hours we spent there. The weather was generally kind although the evenings were definitely chiller now we were that bit further north.

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A Short Sojourn Away

We had been invited down to Weston Super Mare to visit friends but as they had a full house, we took Dora to make life easier as we could sleep in her. We left on Sunday, June 2 around 13.15 after Liz had done her bit volunteering at a nearby wetland park and had an uneventful but slow journey down. We found a large enough spot to park right outside their flat which was extraordinary given we were close to the front and it was a lovely sunny day! We had time to catch up with old friends before eating out a local Greek restaurant, The Thatched Cottage, that evening.

 

Sand Bay
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