Delightful d’Oleron

After our lovely sojourn on Île de Rè, we decided it was time to move on so we drove down to the next large island, Île d’Oleron, just 65 miles away. It’s the second largest island in France (Corsica being the biggest) but it was amazing quiet and tranquil. No bridge toll to pay and the roads were pretty quiet once we were actually on the island.

The campsite was another laid back, back to nature type with direct access to the sea. We had plenty of spots to choose from so we chose one near to the beach but also flat. We had shade from the pine trees but enough sun to allow us to have lunch outside.

It was about a half mile walk through the trees to a glorious beach with boats bobbing on mooring buoys and even the local sailing school.

We spent the afternoon there with Liz playing on her paddle board and Jo reading her book with an occasional foray into the Atlantic Ocean. A lovely chilled day.

Miles since last blog: 65

Miles this trip: 591

Idyllic Île de Rè

We departed our lovely little spot in Saumur on Saturday around 11.00 after a relaxed morning. We called in at a local supermarket and a wine warehouse to stock up before our 140 mile journey south west to Île de Rè, a small island off the Atlantic coast near La Rochelle. It was a pleasant journey on main and local roads through villages and a lot of sunflower fields! We stopped off on the way to see the chateau at Montreuil-Bellay which looked very pretty against the sky line.

Montreuil-Bellay
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Lovely Loire

We awoke amongst the vines on Friday morning after a very peaceful night’s sleep. We had arranged to have a wine tasting after breakfast so we duly took on our task. We ended up buying three bottles of their Crèmant de Loire before spending the day exploring the area.

First stop was the fascinating troglodyte village of Rochemenier. Having quarried the sandstone, the villagers then dug out whole communities to live in. The village museum showed two ‘farms’ complete with stables, bakery, village hall and houses. Apparently, people lived and worked there from the 1300s until the 1960s.

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Home to the Loire Valley

We started our French trip from Portsmouth on the 15.00 ferry to Caen. We left home around 10.00 so that it would be a stress free journey. As it happened, it was a good run down and we were at the terminal by 12.30 and on board by 14.30. We were very happy not to be pulled over by Maritime Security so our check-in was quick and efficient. The ferry was a relative new ship, Guillaume de Normandie, so despite the rough seas and strong winds, it was a relatively good crossing with just a couple of hours of strong motion – evidenced by the heaving in the women’s toilets!

Waiting to board
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Cute Cotswolds?

It was a last minute decision to join friends camping in the Cotswolds last week. They had found an adults only, over 30s site just outside of Bourton on the Water so we were hoping that it would be a tranquil and peaceful campsite. Field Barn Park was that and more. Generous 100sqm pitches with hedges for privacy, electric hook up and water points near every other pitch. Although a mile and a half from the hubbub of Bourton, it could have been 500 miles away as it was so relaxing and calm. It even had a farm shop with an honesty box and food waste disposal (a rarity on UK campsites).

We arrived on the Monday afternoon (August 18) just before our friends, Caroline and Val with their gorgeous dog, Luca. We had a chilled evening with a BBQ in the setting evening sun. A perfect start.

Dora with her new magnetic awning pole holders
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Glamorous Glyndebourne

We were very fortunate to be offered tickets to see The Marriage of Figaro by Mozart at the Glyndebourne Opera House near Lewes, East Sussex. We decided to make it a mini break and left home on the Thursday lunchtime (August 7th) to make our way towards Lewes as we had secured a community site for a couple of nights behind The Laughing Fish pub in Isfield. On the way we inadvertently drove through Lewes with its quaint streets and medieval architecture.

Isfield Community CL Site
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Terrific Texas

It seems that this summer is all about music festivals for us. No sooner had we recovered from Glastonbury than we were making our way to Ludlow Castle for one of their summer concerts. We decided to make this trip a mini break and travelled just north of Ludlow to Halfpenny Green Wine Estate. Set in 30 acres of wonderful vines, this winery has established itself as a popular venue in Staffordshire. It had added a shop, cafe and a lovely craft village on site to complement the winery.

Wine tasting in the sunshine
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Glasto Baby!

We had wanted to go to Glastonbury for a few years since we began campervan life and didn’t spend all of our summers in the Med. This year we finally managed to get there and book a space for Dora as well. We really couldn’t be doing with sleeping in a tent cheek by jowl with 200,000 others.

In order to get to Worthy Farm as the gates opened for campervans on the Tuesday morning (yes, three days before the main event!), we left home on the Monday (June 23) afternoon to drive to Cheddar Bridge Park campsite near Cheddar so we could meet up with our fellow festival goers, Caron and Yvonne, in their hired VW California van. We arrived around 17.30 and had a great spot opposite them but near the loos and the fresh water point. We had a lovely BBQ and catch up that night, sitting out until well after dark.

Busy but clean campsite for the night
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Merci Mersea

Having spent over 5 weeks recovering from knee surgery, we agreed that Jo needed a short break away. We decided to visit Mersea Island and have lunch in one of the seafood shacks on the seafront. Although it was the Friday of school half term, we managed to book a table at The Company Shed for 14.00 to give us plenty of time to get there. We also needed to factor in when high tide was as the causeway over to the island can flood. We were fine as we crossed a good two hours before but then it took us another half an hour to find somewhere to park. We managed to find a spot in the car park by the high street (just as well we don’t have a longer van!) but it meant a 20 min walk back to the sea front which was quite a way for Jo with her new knee!

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Mayhem at St Mary’s Loch

We had a leisurely early morning with Helen before leaving Pitlochry on the final proper day of our Scottish holiday. We made our way down to the Scottish Borders via Perth and Edinburgh. Just as we were approaching Edinburgh we got a message to say that another Helen (old school friend of Liz’s), who was supposed to be meeting us later in her motorhome, had a flat battery and did we have any jump leads? Of course we did so we made our way to Gorebridge, just south of Edinburgh where we eventually jump started her Moho in the rain. Hot cross buns and coffee were a welcome recompense.

Jump start successful!
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The Black Isle

From our overnight stop at Glenmorangie House, we made our way to The Black Isle. It’s not actually an island but a peninsula and it’s not black but local folklore says the name comes from the fact that it has its own microclimate so when everywhere around is covered in snow it doesn’t settle on the peninsula.

It was a delightful day driving and cycling around the area including Clootie Well, a sacred healing natural spring where people now leave clothing in the hope of being cured. Frankly, it looked a bit scruffy!

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NC500 to Glenmorangie

After saying farewell to Jo’s cousin and family on Monday morning (April 14), we continued our way and rejoined the North Coast 500 (known as the NC500). It’s a circular tour of the highlands that’s just over 500 miles long. We had already done some of it on the west coast but time prevented us from going right to the top of Scotland so we were happy to rejoin the route on the east coast. Our first stop was Dunrobin Castle, home of the Duke of Sutherland. It was a pretty big stately home with manicured gardens but the piece de resistance was the falconry display. 30 mins of watching these magnificent a Gyr Falcon and a Harris Hawk go through their paces as well as learning how different their attacking styles were.

Dunrobin Castle

After that, onwards south via the lovely town of Dornoch with a great cathedral.

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Onwards towards Lairg

Mellon Udrigle

We awoke on Sunday morning to a wonderful view across the beach but sadly we needed to be on our way. So, after a lazy start, our first port of call was Gruinard Beach which was nice enough but not as spectacular as our overnight stop at Mellon Udrigle.

Gruinard Beach

Then onto the Falls of Measach at Corrieshalloch Gorge, which was a lovely woodland walk to a suspension bridge over the gorge highlighting the falls.

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Over the sea to Skye (by bridge!)

Calmac Ferries had very kindly told us on Tuesday that they had cancelled our booking from Mallaig on the Scottish mainland to Armadale on Skye. When we looked to rebook, we found that there wasn’t a ferry running that actually took campervans! Very helpful. So, our plans needed to change as we would now be going over the road bridge to Skye. We still wanted to do the ‘Harry Potter’ things so we needed to go to the Glenfinnan Viaduct (steam train) and Loch Eilt (Dumbledore’s Grave). This meant we would now be doubling back on ourselves but we thought it was worth the effort and in some ways gave us more flexibility than adhering to ferry sailing times.

We knew we needed to get to the Glenfinnan Viaduct at least an hour before the train was due to cross over at 10.45 to get a parking spot such is the popularity of the Harry Potter franchise. However, there were several places we wanted to stop off at on the way from Loch Lomond so we were up and away by 06.45 on Wednesday morning. We had a glorious scenic drive along Loch Lomond and through Glencoe, scene of the famous MacLeod massacre by the Campbells.

Glencoe Pass
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Families (royal or otherwise)

We finally set off on our Scotland adventure on Monday, April 7th just after lunch some 5 days later than originally planned due to Jo’s pre-op hospital appointments in preparation for her knee replacement surgery at the end of April. We got as far as Lancaster and stopped at a pub, the Greyhound at Halton, for a delicious dinner and overnight stop in their car park (S4S-S476745).

A great stopover just off the M6
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Bletchley Park

When we got back from our recent travels, we found that our engine battery was very low but to be fair our tracker company had been letting us know it was low. Anyway, we plugged it in (not easy given where it’s parked) for 24 hours to charge up but thought a run would be beneficial.

Friends of ours, Maria and Jane, wanted to visit the WW2 code breaking centre at Bletchley Park, which is less than an hour from us so we decided to join them. We got the campsite, Old Dairy Farm Camping at Stoke Hammond, around 13.30 on Wednesday afternoon. It was a pretty cold and miserable February day but we were cosy in their Adria van catching up over a cup of tea whilst Liz was on an environmental training course. We cooked in both vans that evening but ate together. As it was so cold, we made sure the heating was on low overnight, especially as Liz was coming down with a cold.

A frosty start at Stoke Hammond
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