Calmac Ferries had very kindly told us on Tuesday that they had cancelled our booking from Mallaig on the Scottish mainland to Armadale on Skye. When we looked to rebook, we found that there wasn’t a ferry running that actually took campervans! Very helpful. So, our plans needed to change as we would now be going over the road bridge to Skye. We still wanted to do the ‘Harry Potter’ things so we needed to go to the Glenfinnan Viaduct (steam train) and Loch Eilt (Dumbledore’s Grave). This meant we would now be doubling back on ourselves but we thought it was worth the effort and in some ways gave us more flexibility than adhering to ferry sailing times.

We knew we needed to get to the Glenfinnan Viaduct at least an hour before the train was due to cross over at 10.45 to get a parking spot such is the popularity of the Harry Potter franchise. However, there were several places we wanted to stop off at on the way from Loch Lomond so we were up and away by 06.45 on Wednesday morning. We had a glorious scenic drive along Loch Lomond and through Glencoe, scene of the famous MacLeod massacre by the Campbells.

We arrived at Glenfinnan Viaduct car park at 09.50 to find it pretty much full but with one space left for a campervan. Phew! We grabbed an unhealthy breakfast and a coffee before making our way to wait for the train. Liz went up to the viewpoint whilst Jo (with her poorly knee) stayed at ground level. At 10.55 the train came through but alas, it was a diesel not steam train! Very disappointing. Afterwards, we crossed the road to the Jacobite monument with a statue of a lone highlander atop that looks over Loch Shiel, which also features in the Harry Potter films.

The reason that a lone highlander is commemorated is that Bonnie Prince Charlie, Catholic grandson of King James VII of Scotland and II of England, raised his standard at Glenfinnan as part of the Jacobite rebellion of 1745. Prince Charles was attempting to regain the throne for his father after Parliament invited the Protestant Hanoverian family (George I) to become monarch after the death of Queen Anne. Bonnie Prince Charlie landed at Mallaig and rode to Glenfinnan where his standard was raised and the Jacobite rebellion of 1745 was established. However, the rebellion only got as far as Derby before the army had to retreat and was then crushed at Culloden. Following this defeat, several leading clan chiefs were either executed or removed from power and Highland dress outlawed.

From Glenfinnan we drove by various lochs to Loch Eilt to visit Dumbledore’s grave. From there we made our way back towards Fort William to see Neptune’s Staircase, a series of eight locks that link the Caledonian Canal to the open water over a quarter of mile. An amazing feat of engineering and we were lucky enough to watch an old fashioned, square rigged sailing ship go through.

Onwards towards the Isle of Skye but first we stopped at the Commando Memorial that commemorated those commandos who had fallen in WWII as their training ground was around Ben Nevis. Next up was Eilean Donan a 13th century castle that is on a promontory and is still lived in today.

Finally we were over the bridge and on the Isle of Skye. Our stopover was in the far NW corner by the Neist Point Lighthouse (P4N#32148) as it was going to be a glorious evening and this was the place to see the sunset. What we hadn’t quite realised was that the drive there was 50 odd miles from the bridge but would take over 1.5 hours! The last hour was on single track roads with many pot holes. However, we were on a mission. We got there and nabbed one of the last places that we could fit in at around 18.30 ready for a glorious sunset. We were not disappointed.

Miles since last blog: 248

Miles this trip: 697