After a slight delay due to seeing a consultant about Jo’s knee and her subsequent steroid injection, we set off to Edinburgh late Tuesday morning (August 13). We needed to be at the site just north of Edinburgh by 20.00 so we only stopped for coffee refills and the toilet during our 400 mile drive north. A quick stop at Keele and Tebay services meant we arrived with 45 minutes to spare. We had taken the scenic route along the A702 from the A74 and it was gorgeous in between the rain showers! Onto our pitch and we were soon heating up the lovely pies we bought at Tebay Services Farmshop. We were shocked how cold it was in comparison to down south. There must have been at least a 10°C difference in temperature and it had started raining from Stafford onwards. Relatively early to bed as it had been a long day.

We had tickets for shows from 16.00 onwards on the Wednesday so we could afford a lazy morning. The sun was out so we took advantage and got the Cadac BBQ out to make bacon butties and have breakfast outside. Little did we know that this would be the only time we would be able to do this!

We left the campsite two hours ahead of our first show as we weren’t sure of the route in by bike. We’d brought the electric ones again as Jo’s knee was slightly better but we thought it prudent to rest it as much as possible and cycling didn’t seem to make it worse. The campsite had provided us with a bike shed as there had been one or two thefts from the site. So, with the bus stop a good 15 minute walk away and knowing how much you end up walking around Edinburgh, we found a great bike path from the site to the centre. The cycle path went along disused railway tracks for the most part before joining the main roads into the city past some fabulous buildings but still on a designated cycle path so it all felt very safe.

35 minutes later we were at the International Conference Centre having a drink before seeing Miriam Margoyles. She did various impressions of Dicken’s characters before answering the audience’s questions. Excellent on both counts. Then across Edinburgh for our dinner reservation at a small restaurant called Under The Stairs. Good food if a little eclectic. Onto the Pleasance Courtyard to see Rosie Jones, comedian. Some might find her a little vulgar as she swears a lot but she is very funny and makes no apology for being either disabled or gay . We left there around 22.30 and made our way back to the campsite along the bike paths (which were eerily deserted). In bed by 23.30 and asleep by 23.32!

The next morning we awoke to lashing rain and high winds. We were hoping that it would ease by the time we left for the city centre but of course it didn’t. It poured down as we rode in so by the time we met our friends, Helen and Annie, at the Assembly Rooms we looked like drowned rats. So much so that we took our socks off as it was better to have cold feet in wet shoes than wet socks and wet shoes. We had come into Edinburgh to see the Black Blues Brothers, an acrobatic group who were fantastic. The group came from Kenya and was part of a charity that helps disadvantaged young people. They would have held their own at the Olympics with their gymnastic ability. Great tricks set against wonderful music. They had earned the standing ovation at the end.

By now the sun was out so a quick drink outside along with many other Fringe attendees. The city has such a lovely buzz about the place with some many artists and venues vying for your business. We had tickets for a burlesque show at 21.00 but first we were joined by Helen’s husband, James, for dinner at Howie’s restaurant opposite Calton Cemetery. A lovely dinner with an espresso martini for dessert followed by a wander through the cemetery before making our way down to the Old Town for the burlesque show. I’m not quite sure why they called it All Stars Burlesque as only 2 out of the 6 acts were any good. The other 4 were awful. Still, that’s the beauty of the Fringe – you never know what you’re going to get!

Back home by 23.00 and in bed by midnight. More rain overnight meant it was nice and cool to sleep but not exactly summer weather!

Friday, though, was dry and we decided to catch a cab in to save Jo’s knee and also because we going round to friends for dinner later and it was too far out to cycle back from. City Cabs were great and came on time to pick us to take us down to The Meadows area where we were meeting Helen again to watch a friend of hers in a dance play called Common is as Common was. It was the memoir of the leading man/director as a child in Glasgow with an abusive father. He played the part of the father and as he said in the play, he understood him better even if he didn’t forgive him. Very thought provoking.

We then walked or, in Jo’s case, hobbled down to Summerhall, the old Veterinary College, to have some lunch in the Royal Dick Pub (honest!) before seeing our final show of the day, Sh*t Theatre, perform a combination of folk songs and comedy. Jo enjoyed it but Liz fell asleep!! Another cab ride and we were off to see friends Sally and Claire who had moved to Edinburgh 3 years ago. It was lovely to see them in their new home.

Another cab home and we were sound asleep within minutes.

On Saturday, we again had a restful morning and cycled along the front towards Granton and Leith. We briefly met Helen at the Royal Forth Yacht Club after she had finished racing for the day before continuing on to Leith. Liz had memories of the old town in Leith being very pretty. In reality it was about 100 yards of waterfront filled with bars and restaurants. We did manage to find a lovely Farmers’ Market and bought some homemade bread.

We had a delicious fish platter as a late lunch at The Shore restaurant washed down with a glass of wine before making our way back to the van. We just managed to avoid the rain. As our lunch had been so filling, we just had hummus with crudités for supper.

We had a couple of shows booked for Sunday, The Best of Edinburgh Showcase featuring four very good comedians (best of which was Steve Bennett) followed by a new take on Cyrano, which was excellent. As the shows finished by 17.30 and it wasn’t raining, we cycled up to the W Hotel as it had a roof terrace with amazing views. A cocktail each later and we again cycled back to the park. It still wasn’t raining so dinner was a BBQ. Too cold to eat outside though so we watched the Team GB Homecoming concert instead.

Monday would be our last day in Edinburgh so although our shows didn’t start until 16.00, we wanted to see a bit more of the city. Again, heavy rain was due so we decided to catch the bus in. The walk to the bus stop probably took twice as long as it should as Jo still can’t walk any distance and is very slow but a couple of minutes later, the bus came along and we were on our way. Once in the city centre, we went to the National Museum of Scotland, visited the Greyfriars Bobby statue, ambled around the Royal Mile (full of tacky souvenir shops) and generally soaked in the atmosphere.

Lunch was at The Haggis Box, part of the Scottish Storytelling Centre (who knew there was one?) and the haggis, neaps and tatties were delicious. Onto Em’s Kitchen for a pistachio latte (thanks to Wendy for the recommendation) before going to see Hannah Gadsby, an Australian lesbian comedian. Brilliantly funny and we hadn’t heard of her but she packed the McEwan Hall out and has shows on Netflix.

A quick bite to eat at a great Lebanese restaurant called Beirut before joining Helen and James at the Pleasance Courtyard to see Garry Starr, who encapsulated everything about The Fringe. His comedy show, Classic Penguins, had him acting out the title of a lot of the Classic Penguin books naked apart from a top hat, dinner jacket and flippers. It was an immersive experience and not for the faint hearted but brilliantly funny. A great way to sign off our Fringe week.

Miles driven this trip: 385