When we realised that the Solheim Cup was being played in Spain, we thought a road trip down the centre of Spain would be fun as we could get a ferry to Santander or Bilbao and then drive down to end up near Malaga. For those of you who don’t know about the Solheim Cup, it’s the women’s equivalent of the Ryder Cup, a two yearly golf tournament between Europe and USA. It promised to be entertaining and a real spectacle.

So on Thursday, September 7th we loaded up Dora and set off to Portsmouth to catch the Brittany ferry to Bilbao. Our ship was scheduled to leave at 19.00 so we left ourselves plenty of time to get down there, have a look around Gunwharf Quay shopping outlet and was at the ferry terminal for 17.30. We had a cabin for the overnight ferry so that we would be refreshed for the next day to explore Bilbao. The ferry was very comfortable, not too busy and the food of a reasonable standard.

Once docked, we made our way to a safe park up just outside the city. We had heard tales that thieves target vans just off the ferry as they realise there will be valuables on board so we wanted a secure spot to visit Bilbao. We weren’t going to stay the night but it was worth paying for peace of mind. Autocaravaning Kobetamendi (P4N#17633) was perfect with a bus stop right outside. We were in the old town in no time and walked across town to the Guggenheim Museum, the reason for our stopover. Wonderful museum both inside and out.

We left around 15.00 to make our way to San Sebastian about 70 miles along the coast as we had a reservation at one of the Michelin starred restaurants there. San Sebastian is a foodies’ paradise with a number of top restaurants as well as home to the Pintos (pronounced pinchos), which are slightly bigger than tapas and renowned in the Basque country. The campsite we were staying at, WeCamping San Sebastian (P4N#21410), had a pool and the pitches all had some form of shade so hammocks were out and a dip in the pool within 5 minutes of arriving at 17.00. The taxi picked us up later for our 21.00 reservation at Arzak restaurant just outside the main city centre. It was a nine course tasting menu with paired wines. Whilst the food was very good (as it should be), it seemed extremely expensive and sadly, we didn’t think it was worth the money.

The next day, Sunday September 10th, we spent the day exploring San Sebastian. First of all, we caught the bus to Mount Igaldo and then the funicular right to the top. We couldn’t work out why it was so busy on a Sunday morning until we got off and realised that it was a perfect vantage point to watch a rowing regatta in the bay! We then walked into town via the two town beaches which had some amazing installations on them. Lunch at Ganbara Pintoxo Bar for a fraction of the price at Arzak and just as good, if not better! After lunch we climbed Mount Urgull to the Christ Monument. Bus back to the campsite for another dip in the pool before a light supper.

On Monday we left the campsite at 09.20 to make our way to Pamplona via a supermarket shop as we didn’t have much food in the van. It wasn’t so much that we were concerned about being searched in Bilboa, post Brexit, but more that we knew we would eat out the first few days in Spain. We parked up in a designated motorhome car park just outside Pamplona city walls (P4N#287560). Very reasonable at €10 including electricity for 24 hours. We stayed for around 3 hours which was enough time to wander through the old town and see the route of the Pamplona Bull Run to the bullring itself.

Next stop was Olite which had a real Parador feel to the place. It was an old medieval town in white sand stone. This time, a free car park (P4N#31634) just outside the town.

We then made our way cross country along local roads to the Rioja wine region where we had booked a couple of nights at the campsite in Haro (P4N#118296). A nice enough campsite to explore the region but we hadn’t realised there were better options nearby. Anyway, as we arrived around 18.30 we managed to have a BBQ before it got dark and a biblical thunderstorm hit us. Torrential rain for about an hour but at least we weren’t camping!

The next day, Tuesday September 12th, we had a wine tasting booked for 11.00 at the oldest Bodegas in Spain called Casa Primicia. We parked up just outside the walled town of Laguardia (P4N# 66343) thinking we had plenty of time but it took us 20 minutes to find the entrance to the bodegas! Fascinating building though as it was originally an XIth century church. We, of course, bought a couple of bottles as mementos. The village car park we were in would have been a delightful spot to stay in as it overlooked the valley and we could then have eaten in the town that evening. However, we had paid for two nights at the campsite so we continued our exploration of the Rioja region, and travelled to a number of wineries that were all within spitting distance of each other.

There were a number of wine warehouses in Haro that had short opening hours so we called into Muga and CVNE the next morning, Wednesday September 13th, on our way from the campsite to buy a few bottles, as you do! Our plan for the day was to visit the rock formations in the Parque Natural de las Bardenãs Reales. We got there around 13.00 and spent the next few hours driving on bone shaking dirt routes through some of the most spectacular desert scenery we had ever seen.

Our next stop that day was Zaragoza, where we had planned to spend the night. Our park up was next to the Lidl supermarket, just outside of town (P4N#43200). We walked into the old town to see the very ornate Basilica and then onto the Moorish castle, Aljaferia, although that had closed early due to an evening concert being held.

On the way back to the van we called into the Goya Museum where we were more impressed with Goya’s etchings than the paintings on show. When we arrived back at the van we didn’t feel comfortable staying there overnight. It felt quite exposed and close to a busy main road so, despite it being dusk, we headed 45 kilometres into the mountains to Goya’s birthplace, Fuendetodos, where we parked up at 21.30 just below the village in a lovely, quiet car park. A quick supper and we were ready for bed.

The next morning we were up fairly early and after a meander around the village looking at the street art, we left for Teruel around 10.00. Unfortunately, Teruel had various roads closed and diversions in place (not always great in a van as some roads were very narrow) as well as a street market where we wanted to park so we left there and made our way to Albarracin. Lovely village with a main square and the inevitable bull ring. (P4N#99294)

After lunch in the van, we drove through mountains and valleys to our nighttime stop, Cuidad Encantado, the Enchanted City. You can stay over night in the car park so we went round the park first to see its extraordinary rock formations before settling down for the night. The car park is really a large dirt space under the trees right in the middle of nowhere so we were blessed with deer coming quite close to the van as we sat there having a sundowner. Magical. (P4N#77898)

We would have stayed there longer but we woke up to rain so decided a town trip was in order. We made our way down the road to Cuenca and managed to find a spot that we just fitted in outside the city walls (P4N#111647). I don’t think we would have found any space if it had been after 10.00 or if it had not been raining. We then had a very steep walk into the old town. We especially wanted to see the Casa Colgandas (hanging houses) that literally hang off the side of the cliff face. Despite the rain, it was a very pleasant couple of hours.

We then drove onto Valeria to visit the Roman ruins, We managed to park up in the village square (P4N#115418) and walk to the ruins. We had an hour before it was shut for lunch. It was an impressive walk around the top of a gorge watching birds of prey. You could see why the Romans chose that spot to defend the whole valley.

After a late lunch , our next stop and overnight park up was Alcalá del Júcar. We drove up into the mountains again and down narrow roads until we reached the castle standing high above the town at 17.25. There was an overnight car park literally next to it on top of the hill (P4N#147204). The weather wasn’t great but it was still a lovely view. The whole town and castle had been built into the rock face and even featured rock houses. A wonderful evening spent exploring the town coupled with a great meal down in town at Fogones el Chato.

The next day, Saturday September 16th, was extremely foggy so after breakfast, we gingerly made our way down the mountain. It didn’t take long for the fog to clear as we descended and we were soon on our way to Altea on the south coast. We parked in a large municipal car park (P4N#49699) in the new town so that we could then walk into the Old Town with its whitewashed buildings and views over the Med.

We had time for a drink on a terrace overlooking the sea before leaving at 15.45 to head towards Alicante to meet up with friends, Lionel, Antonio and Freya the cockapoo on board Yacht Arabesque for the evening. We parked up on a side road very close to the beach at Playa de L’Almadrava (P4N#69315), just north of Alicante where Arabesque was anchored for the night. Pre dinner drinks and a swim on board before eating at the local beach bar, La Gallina. So lovely to catch up with them and we even had breakfast with them at the same beach bar the next day!

We left around 11.00 and gave Antonio a lift back to Alicante before heading off to Cartagena. We arrived around 13.30 and found a spot to park near the local hospital (P4N#308738). Again, a short walk into the old town. The Roman theatre was shut for lunch but we still managed to see inside and then walked up to the castle although the views across the city weren’t very interesting. Our walk back to Dora was via the Archaeological Park which was more interesting.

After lunch on board, we drove onto the Geode at Pulpi. Their website had said that they were fully booked so we were delighted that they had two cancellations for the 18.00 tour. It is one of the world’s largest crystal caves.

We got there just in time and spent the next two hours underground. We left at 20.00 and looked around for somewhere to spend the night nearby. We drove about 15 minutes to a cove that had designated motorhome parking called La Playa de la Carolina (P4N#301639) and also overlooked the next bay, Playa de los Cocedores. It was a back to nature place with no facilities but wonderful views.

We awoke the next day, Monday September 18th, to still glorious views of golden sand and crystal clear water so decided to spend the morning chilling and enjoying the beach. A baker’s van arrived around 08.00 so that was breakfast sorted! We were having a lovely time sitting and reading or, if you’re Liz, exploring the caves that we didn’t leave until after 15.00 to drive towards Gabo de Gate-Nijar. The lighthouse itself was not quite as expected but the sunset was lovely and we managed to find a spot by the beach just off the road to spend the night. (P4N#440155).

We drove up to the Sierra Nevada via various villages including Pampaneira for lunch (P4N#71767) and a visit to a Turkish wash house and also a chocolate factory; Bubion, Capileira, the witches town of Soportujar before heading back to the coast to Almuñécar. We found the last spot looking over the beach there that would fit our 6m van (P4N#395934) at 19.45. It was a lovely day exploring the area.

We both awoke early on Wednesday, September 20th to a beautiful sunrise. Despite being parked right next to the road, we had a really quiet night and slept well. We left our park up around 09.45 to drive to Nerja to see the Balcony of Europe. It was a very pretty place overlooking the sea and we had a great park up near the centre of town (P4N# 422371).

As we would be handing Dora over to our friends, Sue and Sheila to drive back to the UK, we went and scouted parking options at Malaga Airport where they would be flying into and us flying out of. We were going to be spending the next 5 days at Bella Vista Campsite (P4N#18763) near Manilva and close to the golf tournament. We met up with friends who had also travelled down to watch the tournament and spent the rest of the time drinking, eating and watching a lot of amazing golf. It was all rounded off by Europe retaining the Solheim Cup.

Sadly, on Monday September 25th, we drove to Malaga airport to hand Dora over as we needed to fly back to the UK to then fly back out to Greece and we needed every Brexit Day we could find. We had a wonderful trip seeing so many new parts of Spain and realising that three weeks is not nearly enough time. We will be back!

Total miles driven: 2,137

Number of days away: 19